Jeju Island is southwest of the mainland of Korea and is unlike any island that we have ever visited. It has a different vibe than the Caribbean islands or Hawaii and is full of eco-diversity.
Whether you visit in summer or winter, there is something to see and do!
Summer 2020 or click for Winter 2021. No matter when you go, I recommend renting a car. You then have the freedom to stop when you want and you can see more of the island. I use Jeju-Ok rent a car through booking.com. We find staying over in Seogwipo to be a good central location. We've stayed at several small hotels and found the Olleyo Resort to be a good value, though a little out-dated. The great water pressure in the shower made up for the sink in the shower! It is right on the shore so you get an ocean view each morning, was easy to find, has a restaurant, 2k to McDonald's and Starbucks, and was pretty quiet. It is close to the two waterfalls, Cheonjiyeon and Jeonbang, and the Olle routes along the coast.
To get a lay of the land, we started off with a scenic drive along the coast (definitely rent a car for better mobility) from one end of the island to the other. There are many shore roads and small towns you can explore, along with beautiful scenery to just stop and and take in; the best part coming from Seoul had to be the fresh air and quiet, and the miles of colorful hydrangeas that lined the highways. The photos below don't do justice to the amazing colors that we saw everywhere.
The island itself is volcanic with 90% of the total area covered in basalt. It is oval-shaped with Hallasan Mountain in the center. What really makes Jeju interesting is the range of sub-tropical, temperate, and polar vegetation. Yes, it is snow covered in the winter!
The black lava rocks line the coasts and beaches, and the turquoise water creates a unique colorscape in the water. The highways are easy to drive but definitely watch for the traffic cameras and just do the speed limit and enjoy the ride! We were blessed to be in the right place at the right time on our scenic shore drive to see pods of dolphins jumping and swimming along the coast.
Hydrangea is a genus of 70–75 species of flowering plants native to Asia and the Americas. By far the greatest species diversity is in eastern Asia, notably Korea, China, and Japan. I couldn't believe the colors that were growing in the same place.
The island is great because whether it is sunny or rainy, there is always something to do! If you just want to be silly, the Alive Museum is the place for you. We found that because of COVID, many attractions were closed, so check before you go to avoid being sad because the Teddy Bear Museum (among others) isn't open! It might just be me who was sad, but the Alive Museum will bring the smiles back.
Inside the museum, you get to put yourself into a variety of scenes and take your picture as part of an optical illusion. It was just plain fun!
There are several folk villages you can visit to see what life was like for early settles on the island that are a nice place to stroll and learn a little history. We toured the Seorgeup Folk Village where they had traditional housing, animals, games, and even lunch! It had room to roam and run so it wasn't crowded and had a little bit of everything. I was reminded at lunch that I need to learn the phrase, "문어를 남겨주세요" (leave out the octopus, please)
As you are driving the roads or walking along the coastal paths, there are all kinds of sights you might see. It seemed as if every citizen of Jeju was part of the "make Jeju beautiful" program and was out on the streets and roadsides planting flowers or pulling weeds. The amount of vegetation and produce was also amazing from the orange trees to fields of onions to drying squid.
Of course, you will probably be getting a little hungry on your so where should you stop? Why, Randy's Donuts, of course! Located on the west coast in Aewol right next to Gwakji Beach. You can stop for donuts, take a little walk along the coast, go out in a clear bottom kayak, and then go over and relax at the beach! If you have the chance, do the beach during the week because the weekends are packed with people. Hyeopjae Beach was also a nice family beach.
Now when you need a little more "stick to your ribs" food, try Black Pork Street in Jeju. The black pork is famous on the island and is done in what I call traditional Korean style. You can find it in many of the small towns as well and it is equally delicious! We also had some great Korean food just down from Randy's Donuts (across from the paid parking lot) that had a relaxing place to sit inside and just watch the sea roll by while enjoying Dolsot Bibimbap and Kimbap.
You will see a variety of Five Day Markets in different towns around the island that are fun to walk through and see what might be interesting to try! We went to the one in Seogwipo though you will see signs to many others. The deer was not at the market (however) and was actually at the Jeju World Automobile and Piano Museum! They gave you carrots with your ticket to feed their roaming deer. An odd collection of things in one place, but I guess something for everyone!
The lady free divers could be seen going out in the mornings and later in the day, at the docks, cleaning out their catch. The Haenyeo (women divers), some in their 80s, dive to collect seaweed, shellfish and other seafood. It was funny yet sad that the eclectic statues, the Dol Hareubang, (meaning 'grandfather made of stone') that can be found all around Jeju Island had to wear masks against COVID. Carved from the island’s porous volcanic rock, the are said to protect against spirits and provide blessings and happiness.
I liked the sounds of nature that you can hear on this trail in Seogwipo Natural Recreation Forest. Nature is the best place for me to feel the presence of God and tune out all the distractions that life has in my path. There are many mountain trails if you want to go up, forest paths if you want to go around, and Olle Routes through the coastal villages (look for the orange/blue trail signs). Be sure to pick up a guide book and map at the airport in Seoul before you go as it is in English and gives you something to read on the plane!
A good rainy day or hot day activity is visiting the lava tubes. We went to the Manjanggul Lava Tube which is located in Gimnyeong-ri, Gujwaeup, Jeju City. At up to 23m wide, 30m high and 8.928km long, it is the 12th-longest lava tube in the world and the second longest on Jeju Island. I was what I had always pictured London to be like for Sherlock Holmes when he was investigating crime, but maybe I just have a vivid imagination! This tube was 1,000 meters in and then back out the same way. The temperature was 56 F and the footing uneven terrain so plan accordingly with your clothing choices.
Scuba Steve, aka Steve my husband, was not excited about the scuba opportunities so we decided to fill the void with a submarine trip down into the abyss; it really wasn't an abyss as we only went 30 meters down but it was cool to ride in a sub and we saw wild vegetation and a variety of small fish. You can see the sub was a good size so you didn't feel "contained". You even get a certificate and souvenir picture of your voyage! Since we rarely have pictures of both of us together, we bought the souvenir picture in a frame because we actually look happy together! (haha) The trip takes you across from the mainland to Udo Island for the sub adventure. We called to reserve and paid when we got there. (online discount 35,000 won)
Some of our favorite coastal spots included the Jeongbang Waterfall, 23 m high and falls right into the ocean, and Songaksan Mountain (both in Seogwipo). The views and trails were varied and the area is right on the coast and very relaxing. You can even take a horseback ride if you like; I just looked for birds!
As you look in the various souvenir stores, you will see all kinds of chocolates, lotions, candles, and candies made of the different types of citrus, as well as the cactus flower that you will see blooming on the island. We did our part to support the local economy!
I will leave you with this song of the parking lot frogs by the 7/11 up the street from the kayak rental in Aewol. If you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of one but if not, just enjoy their melodious song!
Whenever it seems as if things are out of control, I am reminded of the similar times in history -- as far back as Biblical times -- when the world seemed to be in chaos, with pain and suffering we can't understand, yet God was always there and in control.
These verses from Psalm 37 sum it all up:
Don’t worry about the wicked or envy those who do wrong. For like grass, they soon fade away. Like spring flowers, they soon wither. Trust in the Lord and do good. Then you will live safely in the land and prosper. Take delight in the Lord,
and he will give you your heart’s desires.
Commit everything you do to the Lord.
Trust him, and he will help you.
He will make your innocence radiate like the dawn, and the justice of your cause will shine like the noonday sun. Be still in the presence of the Lord, and wait patiently for him to act. Don’t worry about evil people who prosper or fret about their wicked schemes. Stop being angry! Turn from your rage!
Do not lose your temper— it only leads to harm.
For the wicked will be destroyed, but those who trust in the Lord will possess the land. Soon the wicked will disappear.
Put your hope in the Lord. Travel steadily along his path.
The Lord rescues the godly; he is their fortress in times of trouble.
The Lord helps them, rescuing them from the wicked.
He saves them, and they find shelter in him.
February on Jeju may not be tropical, but it was pretty flower nonetheless. The canola flowers are fragrantly blooming and the camilla flowers are giving their final performance of the winter. A nice place to visit any time of the year is Hallim Park on the west coast by Hyeopjae Beach. There are a variety of gardens to walk through, including a Bonsai section with a 200 year old Crepe Myrtle tree. Camilla Hill is located near the Jeju Glass Museum. It has other flowers blooming year round as well.
A good day trip is out to Udo Island, off the east coast of Jeju. You can take your car on the ferry and drive the island. It is a great place to see various groups of diver ladies out collecting sea snails. I was amazed that they go out year round because the water is cold in the summer, but frigid in the winter! You can also walk or rent scooters to see the sights which are mainly outdoor landscapes and local scenes. Across from the ferry you can also visit Seongsan (Sunrise Peak). If you plan to hike up to the top, you need a couple hours so arrive early as it is limited on numbers at the moment due to COVID. We also went to the Jeju Rail Bike ride in the countryside. Not the most exciting one, but a leisurely ride that puts us on a road where we got to see an actual turnip truck, and, watch the turnips themselves FALL OFF THE TURNIP TRUCK! haha.
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